Scotland’s natural larder is bursting with delights, from wild meat and game to the finest whisky and ale. This month, Philippa Davis offers a delicious recipe for Scotch eggs
As a travelling private chef, I have been able to visit some of the world’s most extraordinary food stores, from the stalls that pop up in the sun-dappled squares of Provence to the shops squeezed into the wet markets of Singapore. However, one place with a most impressive natural larder is much closer to home: Scotland.
The landscape supports a glorious mix of wild meat, game and livestock, and there is a dizzying array of delicious drinks as well as top-quality fruit and vegetables on offer. Further, the surrounding waters support a fine range of fish and shellfish. Making the most of these ingredients are some outstanding producers. Great Glen Charcuterie and East Coast Cured produce superb charcuterie. Errington Cheese makes a selection of award-winning cheeses, and Katy Rodger’s crème fraîche is some of the most luscious you will ever eat.
ARBROATH SMOKIE SCOTCH EGGS WITH CAPER MAYONNAISE
Arbroath smokies are small, hot-smoked haddocks from the town of Arbroath in Angus. I sprinkle mine with a little Blackthorn salt: finest-quality salt crystals made by trickling sea water through a huge blackthorn tower built on the coast of Ayrshire.
Ingredients
Makes 4
Allow 1 each for a lunch dish or ½ per person for a starter
Scotch eggs
400g mashing potato
300g Arbroath smokie, boned and skinned (this will be the flesh from approximately 2 fish)
1 heaped tsp horseradish sauce
1 heaped tsp wholegrain mustard
1 heaped tbsp parsley, medium chopped
4 medium free-range eggs
Coating
30g plain flour
1 medium free-range egg, lightly beaten
40g panko breadcrumbs
Oil for frying
Caper mayonnaise
4 tbsp mayonnaise
1 heaped tbsp capers, drained and finely chopped
1 heaped tbsp parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp lemon juice
1 heaped tsp wholegrain mustard
1 heaped tsp horseradish sauce
To serve
A handful of green salad leaves
METHOD
Scotch eggs
Peel and chop the potato and boil in a pan of lightly salted water until just cooked. Drain and allow to steam for 5 minutes then roughly mash with a fork.
Place the smokie flesh in a food processor and gently pulse to break up into small pieces.
Blend in the horseradish, mustard and parsley then mix in the mashed potato.
Lower 4 eggs into a pan of boiling water, cook for 6 1/2 minutes then plunge into a bowl of iced water and allow to cool before peeling.
Take a quarter of the smokie mix, form into a flat disc on the palm of your hand then mould around an egg. Repeat with the rest.
Coating
Place the flour, egg and breadcrumbs in separate bowls. Season lightly.
Dip and roll the smokie-wrapped eggs into the flour, then the egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Place on a plate and chill for 1 hour.
Frying
In a heavy-bottomed, deep pan, heat the oil to 175°C.
Lower the eggs in one or two at a time and fry for around 5 minutes until golden.
Remove and drain on kitchen paper.
Caper mayonnaise
Mix everything together in a bowl. Keep chilled.
To serve
Serve cut in half with a spoonful of caper mayonnaise and a few leaves of salad.