Potted pigeon is as delicious as it is versatile. A great way to use up the birds lurking in the freezer, it is undoubtedly best served on toast with a cold beer. The British craze of potting may seem old-fashioned now, but try Drew Ackroyd’s recipe to bring potted pigeon into the 21st century. Nothing can beat its gamey taste with the kick of cayenne.

Potted pigeon is great on toast with a good chutney. Try Mike Robinson’s winter chutney: great with leftovers for a delicious homemade effort to add to your feast. Reusing shop bought jars is a great way to store homemade preserves. Whether you are packaging them up as gifts or simply storing them in your own larder, removing the old labels without a sticky mess is a good skill to have. Read how to remove jam jar labels to learn how to do it properly and start building your collection. Your guests will be impressed by your efforts.

POTTED PIGEON

Serves 4

• 125g best butter, softened
• 4 pigeon, oven ready
• Cayenne pepper
• Fresh nutmeg
• Pedro Ximenez (or madeira or port)
• Small amount clarified butter
• Some bay leaves

To make potted pigeon, place a knob of butter in the cavity of each bird and rub with salt, pepper and a good pinch of cayenne. Roast in foil for 30 minutes at 180C°/ 350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Allow the birds to cool then shred the meat from the carcases and combine with enough softened butter to hold it together, a few scrapings of nutmeg and a considerable dribble of booze. Taste, season, taste; it should be slightly sweet/salt and gamey with a kick of cayenne.

Press into ramekins, cover with clarified butter and a bay leaf. Refrigerate. Allow to come to room temperature and serve with hot brown toast, good chutney and cold beer.